Baška brings the island into sharp relief: pale rocky hills, a broad bay and the long curve of Vela plaža. Begin at water level. A walk along the waterfront, a swim when conditions suit and lunch with the mountains in view can be a complete day.

Look beyond the beach towards Jurandvor and the Church of St Lucy, connected to the Baška Tablet and Croatian written heritage. The church displays a replica; the original is in Zagreb. If you choose a hill walk, remember that a waterfront stroll and exposed rocky terrain require very different preparation.